Our last day in Ikaria - we’ll both be sad to be leaving this place. After breakfast we head back to the high mountain pass - Cara drives this time so I get to look at the mountain villages and photograph the awesome road.

We stop again at the high plateau - the wind is down and the weather much warmer than last time. The decent on the other side of the mountain is amazing - such a fantastic bit of road - spectacular. We go the other way towards the famous Seychelle’s beach- Cara bravely piloting our tiny car through multiple hairpin bends descending through open space to the sea. We pass through the island’s only tunnel which is unlit and roughly hewn - it feels more like a fantasy dwarf construction than something modern.

We stop at the top of the steep descend to the beach (we’re not really interested in beach or sun today - or being eaten by anything) to take some photos of the mountains - the shallow sea is bright aqua marine below us. Then onwards and downwards to a little sea side port called Manganite

We park and find a very cute harbour set in a rocky cove. A lovely old bar with a devastatingly handsome, rugged greek barman gives us beer and apricot daiquiri. This joint was recommended by a car hire lady once so we order some food.

The food turns out to be really excellent! Most notably beautiful fried fish nuggets - simple white fish cooked perfectly - soft and tasty. We swim in the clear, deep, cool, blue waters - as I float in deep water and look up at a domed blue church above on the mountainside it seems a crystal iconic, mediteranean moment.

We drive back over the mountains, more perilous up than down but we make it with little drama to the safety of Thea’s rooms. We have our last support and drink the strange minerally bottle of wine from Santorini. Then to bed where we play a game; have some coffee and Mastik; and sleep.